04-09-2008, 10:32 PM
TM Hi-Capa Series Aftermarket Upgrade Parts Guide
![[Image: bwcat6wu9.jpg]](http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/7429/bwcat6wu9.jpg)
I. Introduction
II. Power Upgrades
III. Accuracy Upgrades
IV. Reliability Upgrades
V. Cosmetic Upgrades
VI. Niche Upgrades
A. Competition
B. Suppressors
VII. Finding and Buying Upgrades
VIII. Useful Hi-Capa Links
Appendix A: Member's Parts Lists
Appendix B: Individual Upgrades Examined/Reviewed (by Category)
Appendix C: Individual Upgrades Examined/Reviewed (by Manufacturer)
Appendix D: Abbreviations and Terms Glossary
I. Introduction
Without a doubt the TM Hi-Capa series (4.3 and 5.1) is one of the best upgrade platforms available. There are a huge number of after market parts available for this gun which means you can do almost anything you want with it. The downside of this is that it is hard for someone new to GBBs to figure out where to begin. The fact of the matter is that there are so many upgrades for a Hi-Capa that building up a gun is not really an exact science. A 'fully" built Hi-Capa (i.e. pretty much everything practical rebuilt with after market parts) can run up to a grand while a 'maxed' Hi-Capa (a gun with pretty much any and every upgrade possible) can run out past $1500-$2000 depending on how custom you get.
However, it is not necessary to spend that sort of money on a Hi-Capa. The beauty of the gun is that it shoots great stock. There isn't really a failure point that has to be addressed right away. In my experience a stock Hi-Capa has no problems handling propane (I watched a 4.3 go through about 1500 rounds stock. I took it apart to upgrade it and didn't see many signs of wear even then).
The first step in choosing you upgrades is deciding what you want the gun to do better (it does everything pretty darn well to start). If you want to up the power you can install a combination of parts to get you there. A pretty common basic power package is a PDI 6.01 tightbore, 9Ball Chamber packing (purple), Guarder Hi-Flow Valve, and a 9Ball Dyna or SD piston head. An important point to note when discussing the potential power added by different upgrades is that the additions are not necessarily cumulative. In other words, if I test a 9Ball chamber packing, and find that it adds 5 FPS to a stock gun, and then test a 9Ball 6.01 tightbore, and find it adds 25 FPS to a stock gun, I can't assume that both these parts, when installed, will give the gun a 30 FPS boost. Thus, I am not going to give specific numbers for FPS increases of different parts since I don't want to create false expectations.
If you want to make your gun more durable and realistic (i.e full metal) there are many different slides available for the Hi-Capa. They start at Guarder (about $55-$65) and go all the way up to Fire Customs which can be in excess of $600. I would recommend that you upgrade the springs at the same time you upgrade the slide. Guarder 150's seem to be the hardest followed by Freedom Art and then SD (which I find to be softest). I don't really have a preference for springs but if you want a vicious snap go for the Guarder (I believe that SD is cheaper though).
This covers the basics for what most Hi-Capa owners need. If you like you can continue to upgrade parts for durability but it may be a wast of money depending on how hard you use the gun. I really haven't had any failures on on a Hi-Capa yet.
The other upgrade category is cosmetic things like more metal, colored grips in different styles, mag wells, etc. These are pretty much personal choice. There are also upgrades available for special uses like target shooting (see info on our very own postal shoot and Section VI).
As far as ordering, most of these parts will only be found in Hong Kong stores. I personally think the Den Trinity has the best selection as well as being a fast and professional outfit that I have worked with a number of times. I would recommend that you go to their site and search 'Hi Capa' which will give you 30 some pages of upgrade parts to choose from. This is a great way to get a feel for what parts you feel look good.
The last thing I need to touch on is installing all of these parts. Some of them are incredibly simple, some challenge an experienced GBB builder. This guide is not about installing parts. It is about finding what upgrade parts you want for your gun. Installing them is another matter for another guide.
Finally, I want to say that while this guide is focused on after market airsoft parts there are more options out there for Hi-Capa's. Some RS parts can be made to fit a Hi-Capa and if you get really creative you can even build parts yourself (see Section VI A). The sky really is the limit when it comes to building Hi-Capas. However, enough preamble, lets get down to the guide!
II. Power Upgrade
TM Hi-Capas are not the most powerful pistols out of the box. They usually (depending on temp, etc.) put out over 300 FPS on Green Gas/Propane which is good enough to get the job done (especially with the awesome to hop-up mentioned later). However, most WA's and KSC's will shoot as hot or hotter so powering up the pistol is important to most builders. The good news is that there is a lot of power to be found in a Hi-Capa. I have personally been able to find nearly 100 FPS in my fully built Limcat (see Appendix A). Granted, I have put a lot of money into that project and not everyone should expect performance like that but it is possible. Most people don't want their pistols shooting much over 350 anyway so it isn't necessary to take the power upgrades to the extreme.
Most builders seem to agree that a basic power up package includes the following:
Tightbore Barrel (TB):
In my opinion a TB is one of the best upgrades out there period. It helps the power and consistency of a GBB tremendously without compromising efficiency in the least. There are many TB's out there but most seem to agree that PDI's 6.01mm Stainless TBs are the best money can buy. For those who haven't worked much with GBB's a TB will increase FPS much more than on an AEG since the gas will continue to expand. This also means that increasing the length on a inner barrel will result in a much larger FPS increase than would be seen with an AEG since it gives the expanding gas more time to act on the BB as it travels down the barrel. Thus, the tighter the TB the most FPS can be expected.
My first TB recommendation is always a PDI 6.01 but if you are working on a tight budget other TB's will help in the same way (just not as much). It is also fair to note the Dee's Customs (DBC) makes 6.01 Hi-Capa barrels. I favor PDI over DBC since the PDI barrels are made from cold forged stainless steel where the DBC barrels are made from tarnished brass.
A Hi-Capa 4.3 can except up to a 94.5mm TB. A Hi-Capa 5.1 can take up to a 112.5mm TB. After that you have to run something like a comp or a suppressor in order to cover the inner barrel. The longest factory barrel made for the Hi-Capa is the PDI 7" 6.01mm (162.5mm) TB. If you lust for power this barrel is for you. It's what I used in my 410+ FPS Limcat.
Chamber Packing:
Chamber packings (also called hop-up buckings) don't do a whole lot for power. The primary reason to upgrade them is accuracy and I cover them in more depth in that section. However, most builders will recommend a 9Ball chamber packing in the list of power tweaks as well since it is good for a few FPS. Overall it is one of those cheap parts that doesn't hurt anything and helps in small ways.
Piston Head(s):
There are a variety of piston heads for the Hi-Capa but the 9Ball Dyna Piston Head and the Shooters Design Piston head seem to be the most popular. Either one will work well in a Hi-Capa and increase compression which can effect power and kick. Both of the above piston heads are of the o-ring type rather than the cut type stock piston head. The big different between the two is that the 9Ball Dyna is ported on the front two allow it to seal better with low pressure gases. This in good unless you are using GG at high temperatures, CO2, or Red Gas. I have heard reports that at these higher operating pressures it is possible for the Dyna to blow is o-ring while the slide is cycling. Thus, I recommend the Dyna for normal GG use and the SD for high temp GG, CO2, and Red Gas use.
Hi-Flow Valve(s) (HF):
Next to the TB the HFs are the best way to increase power in a GBB. The downside of any HF is that it decreases efficiency since it allows the gun to use more gas per shot. The other negative aspect abut a HF is that it is a magazine upgrade so each and every magazine you own will need one. Those points aside they do open up the power. There are a number of different brands on valves available but it would seem that the Guarder HF is the best option for a balance or increasing power while being strong and reliable itself. It is also possible to modify your stock valves into HF's but I have never done it so it's a guide for someone else to write.
The above constitute what I would call a basic power package. There are other upgrades that effect power (hammer springs, loading nozzles, and floating valves to name a few) but they are generally installed for reasons other than power and just happen to add a few FPS here and there. Rather than discuss these in detail here I will address them later in their proper sections and in the specific parts appendices. You can also check out different peoples parts combinations and their resultant power in Appendix A.
III. Accuracy Upgrades
TM Hi-Capa's are very accurate pistols right out of the box. TM guns in general are known for their exception hop-ups and most won't dispute the fact that the TM pistol Hop-up system is the best in the business. It is interesting to note that TM GBB's use the same basic hop-up system that the TM VSR Sniper Rifle series uses. I think that that says something. However, since an upgrader is never content with stock there are a few things you can do to make your already good gun better.
First, a tightbore inner barrel will do a lot towards making your shots more consistent at long range. I have target tested a stock TM 4.3 barrel (94.5mm), a 9Ball 6.03 5.1 barrel (112.5), and a PDI 6.01 barrel (162.5mm) in the same gun and noticed a significant (to me at least) improvement in consistency out past 25m. I will admit that accuracy testing can at times be more of an art than a science since it is hard to quantify accuracy without a significant amount of equipment. However, I figure that my sharing my personal observations will at least help give a general idea o change that can be expected. To summarize, a good tightbore should help the gun with shot consistency as well as power.
Second, while the stock TM Hop-up bucking isn't bad there are several different after market replacements that can usually help one pick up a bit more range. The 9Ball chamber packing is probably the most popular bucking choice since it does the most to create a better seal and boost power output a few FPS. Since the hop-up mech is the same as the TM VSR series all on the First hop-up buckings designed for the VSR are also options. I also believe that there is a KM option as well. I have yet to see a comparison between all three types but if you are truly an accuracy buff it is good to know that there are a variety of options out there.
After what I have suggested above I just want to reiterate that the Hi-Capa is more than adequately accurate out of the box for a pistol. I have not trouble hitting man sized targets at 25m+.
IV. Reliability Upgrades
While Hi-Capa's are very reliable guns out of the box many users like the peace of mind that comes from having replaced possibly weak stock parts with after market ones. There are many parts that are mainly cosmetic but do help reliability in a small way (like a metal trigger verses a plastic one). I won't be addressing those parts since there are many of them and they never need to be replaced for reliabilities sake. There are other parts that are worth a look as they may need to be replaced at some point. They are as follows: Loading Nozzle, Hammer Mechanism, Slide, Outer Barrels
Loading Nozzles:
Some people have mentioned that they have had stock loading nozzles crack. There are two different options. The first is a Guarder loading nozzle. Based on chrono test run by hkssr20det on one of my guns it became apparent that the Guarder nozzle fits looser than the stock loading nozzle and thus causes the gun to lose power and kick. Not a good deal. The other loading nozzle is made be SD. Labeled as a 'POM' kit, it includes a new loading nozzle, a valve blocker, and floating valve. The problem is that both the POM kits I have fitted have had sticky floating valves (the would stick on the first shot so that the slide would cycle but no BB would fire). This issue is fixed by just using the stock floating valve from before the upgrade.
Hammer Mechanism:
While I have never had any part of a hammer mech fail on me I have heard reports of issues from people with highly upgraded guns that put lots of stress on the mech. There are several good options for hammer mech parts. PDI has new hammers and sears, KM makes a solid steel hammer strut, SD makes a new valve knocker and Airsoft Surgeon/Silver Fox even make a complete replacement kit (includes hammer, hammer strut, sear, and valve knocker). There are a few other options but most builders tend to use the parts above.
There is debate about whether or not it is worth replacing any of these parts unless there is a failure. I honestly think that it is not necessary but I did it on one of my Hi-Capa's anyway. If your on a budget it certainly isn't necessary though. The only guns that really need to worry about these parts are old guns that have been highly upgraded (150% hammer springs etc.).
Slides:
Many feel that the stock plastic slide needs to be replaced in order to use GG in the gun. This is not the case. The gun should not explode if you use GG in it. However, use of GG will cause more wear on any gun so it is a good idea to upgrade the slide and outer barrel if you plan on using GG over thousands of rounds. There are a wide variety of slide from the Hi-Capa. Manufacturers include: SD, Prime, Davidson Custom (found on RSOV), PGC, Fire Custom Shop, and Guarder. All of these slides are solid pieces that will work fine on a Hi-Capa. Some, like the Guarder have a cheap finish that matches their cheap price. Others, like PGC, SD, Prime and Davidson Custom, are very nice mid range slides that are all quality options. Fire Customs slides are almost works of art. Unfortunately some are priced at more than $600 so they ar not used very commonly.
Outer Barrels:
When you replace a stock slide with a metal one it is also a good idea to upgrade the outer barrel to something metal. Using a metal slide with a plastic barrel (i have tried it on several guns) works for a time but the metal ends up putting a lot of wear of the plastic outer barrel and in time I think that it could become a failure point.
There are several basic choices for metal outer barrels. Guarder barrels are cast in one piece and are fairly cheap. They do work but there is some slop in them and every once in a while they can jam a gun if not fitted properly. The most popular option are the SD 2-piece chamber and outer barrel sets. They are machined form quality steel and require very little fitting. There is a wide variety of combinations so it's usually possible to get the exact look that you are after. There are other, less popular, brands, like PDI and 9Ball, that are still quality pieces depending on what you are going for.
V. Cosmetic Upgrades
To start off, I consider a upgrade to be cosmetic if it has very little practical effect and is mainly intended to look nice. Some people who upgrade their guns do so only for performance reasons. If you are one of those people you probably don't need to waste your time reading this. Other people like to make their guns look realistic or even just 'cool looking'. Unlike the other sections I am not going to do a play by play break down of the cosmetic accessories available for Hi-Capas. This is mainly because there is no such thing as a bad or good cosmetic upgrade. In other words, beauty is in the eye of the beholder (although I believe that Homer Simpson put forward the idea that beauty is in the eye of the beer holder). Once you figure out what you want you can look it up in the Appendix B or C (once they are done that is) and find out more in depth information
What I do want to say about cosmetic accessories is that the sky's the limit. You can spend thousands (literally I'm afraid) on custom parts that don't do much other than look good. I have found that the single best way to find ideas for Hi-Capa's to build is to go to DEN Trinities site (see links in VII) and search 'Hi Capa'. If you want to see truly out of this world guns and parts check out Fire Custom Shop (see links in VII).
VI. Niche Upgrades
A. Competitive Shooting Upgrades
I personally don't shoot competitively but I have built race styled Hi-Capas before so I have handled parts related to race builds. Airsoft race guns are generally built to have as little kick as possible and are commonly equipped with mag wells and optics (open guns). Internally the low kick goal is commonly pursued through the use of short stroke (SS) kits (springs or recoil rod buffers) and lightening the slide using stock plastic slides, porting, and AS BBU's as well as a number of hand made custom parts (see links at bottom of section). Before I go further I want to say that my knowledge isn't comprehensive but I can at least outline the basic points. I will also cover airsoft comp options in this section (even though they are really only good for covering longer inner barrels and making the gun a bit more front heavy).
1) Mag Wells -
Mag wells are available from several different companies. SD and WE make mag wells specifically for the Hi-Capa. They both seem to fit the stock grip easily but the SD well does require fitting when used with an after market grip. In addition PGC, SD, and CP (there may be other obscure brands that I forgetting) make WA SVI mag wells which apparently can be fit on TM Hi-Capas (I have had multiple unrelated sources tell me this). However, they are not a drop in fit (some say they are a bit loose) so I don't really recommend them. Mag wells are supposed to help speed up reloads (by helping channel the mag into the grip) and I feel that they are a positive asset to a Hi-Capa. However, unless you like the look etc. they are not a necessary upgrade.
2) Optic Mounts -
If you want to build a killer open pistol you will probably want to mount an optic on it. There are several options available. My personal favorite (and the only one that I have worked with) is the SD line of optics mounts. They are built for TM 5.1's (don't really work with 4.3's) and mount using the knockouts for the lower rail (you can't have the rail installed). This is great because it means that, unlike the other options, no drilling, taping, etc. is necessary to attach the optics mount. It also means that it only takes about two minutes to remove the optic mount. The SD optic works with any optic that can mount on a common rail (I use an ATN and I have seen people use a variety of clone airsoft optics as well). The other railed optic mount option is G&P. Their optic mounts are installed by drilling and tapping the side of the frame so that you can screw the optic mount on. I think that this system is time consuming but it does give the gun a certain look. It also works fine with the TM 4.3. AS offers a nice mount for a tubular optic like an Aimpoint. It installs like a G&P mount and can be seen on ViciousV10's Hi-Capa in Appendix A. My guess is that optic mounts for WA's and RS guns could also be made to work but it would be a challenging project that an amateur probably wouldn't want to attempt (I certainly don't).
3) Short Stroking (SS) -
The idea behind SSing a slide is to lessen its travel to cut down on recoil. This can be accomplished by putting a buffer on the recoil guide rod or by using a very strong spring (9Ball makes an SS spring which I own but haven tried). Most people use home made buffers (I have one made for me by the4power that works a charm) but I know that Proud also makes a SS buffer (I think it is for WA's actually) that is supposed to work (haven't used it myself though). For more information on home made buffers check out the links below.
4) Comps -
While airsoft comps don't work like RS comps they do have some uses; they are a low profile way to cover extended inner barrels and they help alter a guns balance. There are several comp options available. PDI has the widest selection of comps with different mount options, styles, and prices. I suggest that you check out their site (see VII). SD also makes a comp set for use with their Limcat slide and comp sets. I use this setup on my Hi-Capa and it is very slick and durable. TK also makes screw on comps that are similar to some pieces released by PDI. For more info on mounting threaded comps see VI B.
Another important point to understand about race guns is that after market parts often are not the best options (they certainly are not necessary). Many of the aspects of building a Hi-Capa into a race gun are home brew teaks that don't cost anything. Captain Plastic has generously allowed me to use material he has written as part of this guide but I honestly feel that his articles explain home brew race tweaking tips better than I could. Below are link to his articles:
Hi-Capa Modifications for Speed and Control
How To Make Custom Hi-Capa Recoil Rods
The first article also has a nice introduction explaining a bit more about what the goals are in building a race Hi-Capa for competitive shooting.
B. Suppressors
While suppressors could be considered cosmetic upgrades they could also be labeled as practical upgrades (they cover longer inner barrels). I decided that it would probably be best to classify them as a Niche Upgrade since they are not all that common on Hi-Capa's. I was going to write this part myself but Racing Maniac generously allowed me to use parts of his fitting a suppressor on a Hi-Capa guide instead. I am editing it down a bit and reformatting it but he should get credit for the information and composition. I have also removed the the WE threaded outer barrel and TK one touch adapter since they were unverified. If you would like to see the whole guide check it out here:
http://airsoft-barracks.com/forums/index...pic=2259.0
(Italics are Racing Maniacs words)
Basic Ways to Fit a Suppressor onto a TM Hi-Capa
Option 1: Nine Ball SAS Kit (verified)
![[Image: 3288629d.jpg]](http://www.supercars.net/pitlane/pics/3288629d.jpg)
Probably the most well known solution for TM Hi-Capa 5.1, the SAS kit attaches in the same way as Nine Ball's meat basher kit(aka the Strike Kit). It uses the stock Hi-Capa Rail mount to pick up a rail and a threaded block to go before the barrel. This block then accepts a included 14mm+(I think 14mm - is available as well) adaptor for which to attach your silencer:
Pros: Looks kinda cool, simple and effective, and relatively affordable.
Cons: I personally am not a fan of this attachment method using the rail mount. For the short rail that Hi-Capa comes with the mount is fine, the rail hugs the contour of the frame, and sits aligned to the frame, but the Nine Ball one does not hug the contour properly, and with the meat of the parts stick far ahead of the mount, I've found that you can mis-align the whole kit with respect to the barrel. And with this kit you WILL have holstering problem as not much holster fits Hi-Capa as is, this will add to that.
Option 2: PDI Comp style inner barrel mount (verified, works with 4.3 as well)
![[Image: 3298978d.jpg]](http://www.supercars.net/pitlane/pics/70153/3298978d.jpg)
Get these with PDI extended inner barrels in 6 + inch variety(or 5" + if you use a 4.3), they clamp onto your long inner barrel with a adapter with 3 set screws, and the adapter can be had in 14mm +/- variety.
Pros: Good for hiding inner barrels, and works well with them too. Good quality parts, and aligns with the barrel properly. Relatively affordable with kits. Also workable with comp too.
Cons: The adapters do tend to move as the gun fires because of the outer barrel movement may push the adapter along. It adds weight to the inner barrel assembly which may have undesirable effect. There will be a gap between the tip of outer barrel to the adapter when the slide is pulled back, which may not suit everyone's visual standard.....
I have also used these cheap PDI adapters to great effect. I haven't had issues with mine moving around but I think that that may be partially because I am using them on solid stainless barrels. I did notice some slipping issues on a friends 4.3 that was using a stock brass 5" barrel. I find the biggest con to be the gap when the slide is locked back (as mentioned above).
Option 3: SD Slide/Bushing/Barrel Combo (verified)
![[Image: 3302927b.jpg]](http://www.supercars.net/pitlane/pics/70153/3302927b.jpg)
![[Image: 3302929b.jpg]](http://www.supercars.net/pitlane/pics/70153/3302929b.jpg)
Most elaborate solution, with I think the best result. This requires you to use a SD slide with available bushing groove, as well as their bushing kit. By using these it allows you to run 1911 straight barrel on Hi-Capa which comes stock with tapered Bull barrel. Once you have the proper slide and bushing kit, you can go with TK 1911 threaded barrel that I've seen somewhere, or go with SD 1911/2011 chamber with SD 1911 straight outer barrel with silencer adapter. Note that you need to have a proper chamber thats labeled for suitable with Hi-capa and 1911, or else the thread is not compatible, and you end up with a barrel that sticks out:
![[Image: 3298238b.jpg]](http://www.supercars.net/pitlane/pics/70153/3298238b.jpg)
![[Image: 3298238c.jpg]](http://www.supercars.net/pitlane/pics/70153/3298238c.jpg)
I find personally that DEN have the best reference as to which chambers are suitable for what, and most selection of chambers available for Hi-Capa/1911 from SD. FYI I ran Barsto .45 ACP for the one that didn't fit, and changed to a Colt .45 Auto which fits properly.
Pros: Looks the best, free-up the inner barrel, installation is simple drop with the compatible parts.
Cons: Cost, weight, only compatible with some SD slides (unverified), not compatible with 4.3 AFAIK, you HAVE to run bushing.
VII. Finding and Buying Upgrades
There are so many parts available for the Hi-Capa that it can sometimes be a bit of a challenge to find what people recommend to you. The most important thing to know is that GBB parts are hard to find in the US. If you are serious about getting your hands on some quality bits and pieces you will need to be ordering parts from Asia (Hong Kong mostly). I know that some people are nervous about order from overseas but I have to say, in my experience, that HK retailers are professional and fast. Also, unlike total guns, it is easy to get parts through customs. Rather than type out a list of stores I will simply post hkssr20det's where to buy GBB's and GBB Parts Guide.
I do want give some basic pointers about places to check out though. The 'Big Three" Hong Kong GBB parts carriers are Den Trinity, UNcompany, and WGC Shop. If you want a part check those places first. Other shops of note include X-Fire (PDI's Japanese outlet) and Fire Custom Shop (insane looking custom parts, also very expensive).
Where to buy GBB's and GBB Parts Guide -
http://airsoft-barracks.com/forums/index.p...msg5455#msg5455
VIII. Useful Hi-Capa Links
Hi-Capa Modifications For Speed and Control
How To Make Custom Hi-Capa Recoil Rods
Buying GBB Parts Guide
I. Introduction
II. Power Upgrades
III. Accuracy Upgrades
IV. Reliability Upgrades
V. Cosmetic Upgrades
VI. Niche Upgrades
A. Competition
B. Suppressors
VII. Finding and Buying Upgrades
VIII. Useful Hi-Capa Links
Appendix A: Member's Parts Lists
Appendix B: Individual Upgrades Examined/Reviewed (by Category)
Appendix C: Individual Upgrades Examined/Reviewed (by Manufacturer)
Appendix D: Abbreviations and Terms Glossary
I. Introduction
Without a doubt the TM Hi-Capa series (4.3 and 5.1) is one of the best upgrade platforms available. There are a huge number of after market parts available for this gun which means you can do almost anything you want with it. The downside of this is that it is hard for someone new to GBBs to figure out where to begin. The fact of the matter is that there are so many upgrades for a Hi-Capa that building up a gun is not really an exact science. A 'fully" built Hi-Capa (i.e. pretty much everything practical rebuilt with after market parts) can run up to a grand while a 'maxed' Hi-Capa (a gun with pretty much any and every upgrade possible) can run out past $1500-$2000 depending on how custom you get.
However, it is not necessary to spend that sort of money on a Hi-Capa. The beauty of the gun is that it shoots great stock. There isn't really a failure point that has to be addressed right away. In my experience a stock Hi-Capa has no problems handling propane (I watched a 4.3 go through about 1500 rounds stock. I took it apart to upgrade it and didn't see many signs of wear even then).
The first step in choosing you upgrades is deciding what you want the gun to do better (it does everything pretty darn well to start). If you want to up the power you can install a combination of parts to get you there. A pretty common basic power package is a PDI 6.01 tightbore, 9Ball Chamber packing (purple), Guarder Hi-Flow Valve, and a 9Ball Dyna or SD piston head. An important point to note when discussing the potential power added by different upgrades is that the additions are not necessarily cumulative. In other words, if I test a 9Ball chamber packing, and find that it adds 5 FPS to a stock gun, and then test a 9Ball 6.01 tightbore, and find it adds 25 FPS to a stock gun, I can't assume that both these parts, when installed, will give the gun a 30 FPS boost. Thus, I am not going to give specific numbers for FPS increases of different parts since I don't want to create false expectations.
If you want to make your gun more durable and realistic (i.e full metal) there are many different slides available for the Hi-Capa. They start at Guarder (about $55-$65) and go all the way up to Fire Customs which can be in excess of $600. I would recommend that you upgrade the springs at the same time you upgrade the slide. Guarder 150's seem to be the hardest followed by Freedom Art and then SD (which I find to be softest). I don't really have a preference for springs but if you want a vicious snap go for the Guarder (I believe that SD is cheaper though).
This covers the basics for what most Hi-Capa owners need. If you like you can continue to upgrade parts for durability but it may be a wast of money depending on how hard you use the gun. I really haven't had any failures on on a Hi-Capa yet.
The other upgrade category is cosmetic things like more metal, colored grips in different styles, mag wells, etc. These are pretty much personal choice. There are also upgrades available for special uses like target shooting (see info on our very own postal shoot and Section VI).
As far as ordering, most of these parts will only be found in Hong Kong stores. I personally think the Den Trinity has the best selection as well as being a fast and professional outfit that I have worked with a number of times. I would recommend that you go to their site and search 'Hi Capa' which will give you 30 some pages of upgrade parts to choose from. This is a great way to get a feel for what parts you feel look good.
The last thing I need to touch on is installing all of these parts. Some of them are incredibly simple, some challenge an experienced GBB builder. This guide is not about installing parts. It is about finding what upgrade parts you want for your gun. Installing them is another matter for another guide.
Finally, I want to say that while this guide is focused on after market airsoft parts there are more options out there for Hi-Capa's. Some RS parts can be made to fit a Hi-Capa and if you get really creative you can even build parts yourself (see Section VI A). The sky really is the limit when it comes to building Hi-Capas. However, enough preamble, lets get down to the guide!
II. Power Upgrade
TM Hi-Capas are not the most powerful pistols out of the box. They usually (depending on temp, etc.) put out over 300 FPS on Green Gas/Propane which is good enough to get the job done (especially with the awesome to hop-up mentioned later). However, most WA's and KSC's will shoot as hot or hotter so powering up the pistol is important to most builders. The good news is that there is a lot of power to be found in a Hi-Capa. I have personally been able to find nearly 100 FPS in my fully built Limcat (see Appendix A). Granted, I have put a lot of money into that project and not everyone should expect performance like that but it is possible. Most people don't want their pistols shooting much over 350 anyway so it isn't necessary to take the power upgrades to the extreme.
Most builders seem to agree that a basic power up package includes the following:
Tightbore Barrel (TB):
In my opinion a TB is one of the best upgrades out there period. It helps the power and consistency of a GBB tremendously without compromising efficiency in the least. There are many TB's out there but most seem to agree that PDI's 6.01mm Stainless TBs are the best money can buy. For those who haven't worked much with GBB's a TB will increase FPS much more than on an AEG since the gas will continue to expand. This also means that increasing the length on a inner barrel will result in a much larger FPS increase than would be seen with an AEG since it gives the expanding gas more time to act on the BB as it travels down the barrel. Thus, the tighter the TB the most FPS can be expected.
My first TB recommendation is always a PDI 6.01 but if you are working on a tight budget other TB's will help in the same way (just not as much). It is also fair to note the Dee's Customs (DBC) makes 6.01 Hi-Capa barrels. I favor PDI over DBC since the PDI barrels are made from cold forged stainless steel where the DBC barrels are made from tarnished brass.
A Hi-Capa 4.3 can except up to a 94.5mm TB. A Hi-Capa 5.1 can take up to a 112.5mm TB. After that you have to run something like a comp or a suppressor in order to cover the inner barrel. The longest factory barrel made for the Hi-Capa is the PDI 7" 6.01mm (162.5mm) TB. If you lust for power this barrel is for you. It's what I used in my 410+ FPS Limcat.
Chamber Packing:
Chamber packings (also called hop-up buckings) don't do a whole lot for power. The primary reason to upgrade them is accuracy and I cover them in more depth in that section. However, most builders will recommend a 9Ball chamber packing in the list of power tweaks as well since it is good for a few FPS. Overall it is one of those cheap parts that doesn't hurt anything and helps in small ways.
Piston Head(s):
There are a variety of piston heads for the Hi-Capa but the 9Ball Dyna Piston Head and the Shooters Design Piston head seem to be the most popular. Either one will work well in a Hi-Capa and increase compression which can effect power and kick. Both of the above piston heads are of the o-ring type rather than the cut type stock piston head. The big different between the two is that the 9Ball Dyna is ported on the front two allow it to seal better with low pressure gases. This in good unless you are using GG at high temperatures, CO2, or Red Gas. I have heard reports that at these higher operating pressures it is possible for the Dyna to blow is o-ring while the slide is cycling. Thus, I recommend the Dyna for normal GG use and the SD for high temp GG, CO2, and Red Gas use.
Hi-Flow Valve(s) (HF):
Next to the TB the HFs are the best way to increase power in a GBB. The downside of any HF is that it decreases efficiency since it allows the gun to use more gas per shot. The other negative aspect abut a HF is that it is a magazine upgrade so each and every magazine you own will need one. Those points aside they do open up the power. There are a number of different brands on valves available but it would seem that the Guarder HF is the best option for a balance or increasing power while being strong and reliable itself. It is also possible to modify your stock valves into HF's but I have never done it so it's a guide for someone else to write.
The above constitute what I would call a basic power package. There are other upgrades that effect power (hammer springs, loading nozzles, and floating valves to name a few) but they are generally installed for reasons other than power and just happen to add a few FPS here and there. Rather than discuss these in detail here I will address them later in their proper sections and in the specific parts appendices. You can also check out different peoples parts combinations and their resultant power in Appendix A.
III. Accuracy Upgrades
TM Hi-Capa's are very accurate pistols right out of the box. TM guns in general are known for their exception hop-ups and most won't dispute the fact that the TM pistol Hop-up system is the best in the business. It is interesting to note that TM GBB's use the same basic hop-up system that the TM VSR Sniper Rifle series uses. I think that that says something. However, since an upgrader is never content with stock there are a few things you can do to make your already good gun better.
First, a tightbore inner barrel will do a lot towards making your shots more consistent at long range. I have target tested a stock TM 4.3 barrel (94.5mm), a 9Ball 6.03 5.1 barrel (112.5), and a PDI 6.01 barrel (162.5mm) in the same gun and noticed a significant (to me at least) improvement in consistency out past 25m. I will admit that accuracy testing can at times be more of an art than a science since it is hard to quantify accuracy without a significant amount of equipment. However, I figure that my sharing my personal observations will at least help give a general idea o change that can be expected. To summarize, a good tightbore should help the gun with shot consistency as well as power.
Second, while the stock TM Hop-up bucking isn't bad there are several different after market replacements that can usually help one pick up a bit more range. The 9Ball chamber packing is probably the most popular bucking choice since it does the most to create a better seal and boost power output a few FPS. Since the hop-up mech is the same as the TM VSR series all on the First hop-up buckings designed for the VSR are also options. I also believe that there is a KM option as well. I have yet to see a comparison between all three types but if you are truly an accuracy buff it is good to know that there are a variety of options out there.
After what I have suggested above I just want to reiterate that the Hi-Capa is more than adequately accurate out of the box for a pistol. I have not trouble hitting man sized targets at 25m+.
IV. Reliability Upgrades
While Hi-Capa's are very reliable guns out of the box many users like the peace of mind that comes from having replaced possibly weak stock parts with after market ones. There are many parts that are mainly cosmetic but do help reliability in a small way (like a metal trigger verses a plastic one). I won't be addressing those parts since there are many of them and they never need to be replaced for reliabilities sake. There are other parts that are worth a look as they may need to be replaced at some point. They are as follows: Loading Nozzle, Hammer Mechanism, Slide, Outer Barrels
Loading Nozzles:
Some people have mentioned that they have had stock loading nozzles crack. There are two different options. The first is a Guarder loading nozzle. Based on chrono test run by hkssr20det on one of my guns it became apparent that the Guarder nozzle fits looser than the stock loading nozzle and thus causes the gun to lose power and kick. Not a good deal. The other loading nozzle is made be SD. Labeled as a 'POM' kit, it includes a new loading nozzle, a valve blocker, and floating valve. The problem is that both the POM kits I have fitted have had sticky floating valves (the would stick on the first shot so that the slide would cycle but no BB would fire). This issue is fixed by just using the stock floating valve from before the upgrade.
Hammer Mechanism:
While I have never had any part of a hammer mech fail on me I have heard reports of issues from people with highly upgraded guns that put lots of stress on the mech. There are several good options for hammer mech parts. PDI has new hammers and sears, KM makes a solid steel hammer strut, SD makes a new valve knocker and Airsoft Surgeon/Silver Fox even make a complete replacement kit (includes hammer, hammer strut, sear, and valve knocker). There are a few other options but most builders tend to use the parts above.
There is debate about whether or not it is worth replacing any of these parts unless there is a failure. I honestly think that it is not necessary but I did it on one of my Hi-Capa's anyway. If your on a budget it certainly isn't necessary though. The only guns that really need to worry about these parts are old guns that have been highly upgraded (150% hammer springs etc.).
Slides:
Many feel that the stock plastic slide needs to be replaced in order to use GG in the gun. This is not the case. The gun should not explode if you use GG in it. However, use of GG will cause more wear on any gun so it is a good idea to upgrade the slide and outer barrel if you plan on using GG over thousands of rounds. There are a wide variety of slide from the Hi-Capa. Manufacturers include: SD, Prime, Davidson Custom (found on RSOV), PGC, Fire Custom Shop, and Guarder. All of these slides are solid pieces that will work fine on a Hi-Capa. Some, like the Guarder have a cheap finish that matches their cheap price. Others, like PGC, SD, Prime and Davidson Custom, are very nice mid range slides that are all quality options. Fire Customs slides are almost works of art. Unfortunately some are priced at more than $600 so they ar not used very commonly.
Outer Barrels:
When you replace a stock slide with a metal one it is also a good idea to upgrade the outer barrel to something metal. Using a metal slide with a plastic barrel (i have tried it on several guns) works for a time but the metal ends up putting a lot of wear of the plastic outer barrel and in time I think that it could become a failure point.
There are several basic choices for metal outer barrels. Guarder barrels are cast in one piece and are fairly cheap. They do work but there is some slop in them and every once in a while they can jam a gun if not fitted properly. The most popular option are the SD 2-piece chamber and outer barrel sets. They are machined form quality steel and require very little fitting. There is a wide variety of combinations so it's usually possible to get the exact look that you are after. There are other, less popular, brands, like PDI and 9Ball, that are still quality pieces depending on what you are going for.
V. Cosmetic Upgrades
To start off, I consider a upgrade to be cosmetic if it has very little practical effect and is mainly intended to look nice. Some people who upgrade their guns do so only for performance reasons. If you are one of those people you probably don't need to waste your time reading this. Other people like to make their guns look realistic or even just 'cool looking'. Unlike the other sections I am not going to do a play by play break down of the cosmetic accessories available for Hi-Capas. This is mainly because there is no such thing as a bad or good cosmetic upgrade. In other words, beauty is in the eye of the beholder (although I believe that Homer Simpson put forward the idea that beauty is in the eye of the beer holder). Once you figure out what you want you can look it up in the Appendix B or C (once they are done that is) and find out more in depth information
What I do want to say about cosmetic accessories is that the sky's the limit. You can spend thousands (literally I'm afraid) on custom parts that don't do much other than look good. I have found that the single best way to find ideas for Hi-Capa's to build is to go to DEN Trinities site (see links in VII) and search 'Hi Capa'. If you want to see truly out of this world guns and parts check out Fire Custom Shop (see links in VII).
VI. Niche Upgrades
A. Competitive Shooting Upgrades
I personally don't shoot competitively but I have built race styled Hi-Capas before so I have handled parts related to race builds. Airsoft race guns are generally built to have as little kick as possible and are commonly equipped with mag wells and optics (open guns). Internally the low kick goal is commonly pursued through the use of short stroke (SS) kits (springs or recoil rod buffers) and lightening the slide using stock plastic slides, porting, and AS BBU's as well as a number of hand made custom parts (see links at bottom of section). Before I go further I want to say that my knowledge isn't comprehensive but I can at least outline the basic points. I will also cover airsoft comp options in this section (even though they are really only good for covering longer inner barrels and making the gun a bit more front heavy).
1) Mag Wells -
Mag wells are available from several different companies. SD and WE make mag wells specifically for the Hi-Capa. They both seem to fit the stock grip easily but the SD well does require fitting when used with an after market grip. In addition PGC, SD, and CP (there may be other obscure brands that I forgetting) make WA SVI mag wells which apparently can be fit on TM Hi-Capas (I have had multiple unrelated sources tell me this). However, they are not a drop in fit (some say they are a bit loose) so I don't really recommend them. Mag wells are supposed to help speed up reloads (by helping channel the mag into the grip) and I feel that they are a positive asset to a Hi-Capa. However, unless you like the look etc. they are not a necessary upgrade.
2) Optic Mounts -
If you want to build a killer open pistol you will probably want to mount an optic on it. There are several options available. My personal favorite (and the only one that I have worked with) is the SD line of optics mounts. They are built for TM 5.1's (don't really work with 4.3's) and mount using the knockouts for the lower rail (you can't have the rail installed). This is great because it means that, unlike the other options, no drilling, taping, etc. is necessary to attach the optics mount. It also means that it only takes about two minutes to remove the optic mount. The SD optic works with any optic that can mount on a common rail (I use an ATN and I have seen people use a variety of clone airsoft optics as well). The other railed optic mount option is G&P. Their optic mounts are installed by drilling and tapping the side of the frame so that you can screw the optic mount on. I think that this system is time consuming but it does give the gun a certain look. It also works fine with the TM 4.3. AS offers a nice mount for a tubular optic like an Aimpoint. It installs like a G&P mount and can be seen on ViciousV10's Hi-Capa in Appendix A. My guess is that optic mounts for WA's and RS guns could also be made to work but it would be a challenging project that an amateur probably wouldn't want to attempt (I certainly don't).
3) Short Stroking (SS) -
The idea behind SSing a slide is to lessen its travel to cut down on recoil. This can be accomplished by putting a buffer on the recoil guide rod or by using a very strong spring (9Ball makes an SS spring which I own but haven tried). Most people use home made buffers (I have one made for me by the4power that works a charm) but I know that Proud also makes a SS buffer (I think it is for WA's actually) that is supposed to work (haven't used it myself though). For more information on home made buffers check out the links below.
4) Comps -
While airsoft comps don't work like RS comps they do have some uses; they are a low profile way to cover extended inner barrels and they help alter a guns balance. There are several comp options available. PDI has the widest selection of comps with different mount options, styles, and prices. I suggest that you check out their site (see VII). SD also makes a comp set for use with their Limcat slide and comp sets. I use this setup on my Hi-Capa and it is very slick and durable. TK also makes screw on comps that are similar to some pieces released by PDI. For more info on mounting threaded comps see VI B.
Another important point to understand about race guns is that after market parts often are not the best options (they certainly are not necessary). Many of the aspects of building a Hi-Capa into a race gun are home brew teaks that don't cost anything. Captain Plastic has generously allowed me to use material he has written as part of this guide but I honestly feel that his articles explain home brew race tweaking tips better than I could. Below are link to his articles:
Hi-Capa Modifications for Speed and Control
How To Make Custom Hi-Capa Recoil Rods
The first article also has a nice introduction explaining a bit more about what the goals are in building a race Hi-Capa for competitive shooting.
B. Suppressors
While suppressors could be considered cosmetic upgrades they could also be labeled as practical upgrades (they cover longer inner barrels). I decided that it would probably be best to classify them as a Niche Upgrade since they are not all that common on Hi-Capa's. I was going to write this part myself but Racing Maniac generously allowed me to use parts of his fitting a suppressor on a Hi-Capa guide instead. I am editing it down a bit and reformatting it but he should get credit for the information and composition. I have also removed the the WE threaded outer barrel and TK one touch adapter since they were unverified. If you would like to see the whole guide check it out here:
http://airsoft-barracks.com/forums/index...pic=2259.0
(Italics are Racing Maniacs words)
Basic Ways to Fit a Suppressor onto a TM Hi-Capa
Option 1: Nine Ball SAS Kit (verified)
Probably the most well known solution for TM Hi-Capa 5.1, the SAS kit attaches in the same way as Nine Ball's meat basher kit(aka the Strike Kit). It uses the stock Hi-Capa Rail mount to pick up a rail and a threaded block to go before the barrel. This block then accepts a included 14mm+(I think 14mm - is available as well) adaptor for which to attach your silencer:
Pros: Looks kinda cool, simple and effective, and relatively affordable.
Cons: I personally am not a fan of this attachment method using the rail mount. For the short rail that Hi-Capa comes with the mount is fine, the rail hugs the contour of the frame, and sits aligned to the frame, but the Nine Ball one does not hug the contour properly, and with the meat of the parts stick far ahead of the mount, I've found that you can mis-align the whole kit with respect to the barrel. And with this kit you WILL have holstering problem as not much holster fits Hi-Capa as is, this will add to that.
Option 2: PDI Comp style inner barrel mount (verified, works with 4.3 as well)
Get these with PDI extended inner barrels in 6 + inch variety(or 5" + if you use a 4.3), they clamp onto your long inner barrel with a adapter with 3 set screws, and the adapter can be had in 14mm +/- variety.
Pros: Good for hiding inner barrels, and works well with them too. Good quality parts, and aligns with the barrel properly. Relatively affordable with kits. Also workable with comp too.
Cons: The adapters do tend to move as the gun fires because of the outer barrel movement may push the adapter along. It adds weight to the inner barrel assembly which may have undesirable effect. There will be a gap between the tip of outer barrel to the adapter when the slide is pulled back, which may not suit everyone's visual standard.....
I have also used these cheap PDI adapters to great effect. I haven't had issues with mine moving around but I think that that may be partially because I am using them on solid stainless barrels. I did notice some slipping issues on a friends 4.3 that was using a stock brass 5" barrel. I find the biggest con to be the gap when the slide is locked back (as mentioned above).
Option 3: SD Slide/Bushing/Barrel Combo (verified)
Most elaborate solution, with I think the best result. This requires you to use a SD slide with available bushing groove, as well as their bushing kit. By using these it allows you to run 1911 straight barrel on Hi-Capa which comes stock with tapered Bull barrel. Once you have the proper slide and bushing kit, you can go with TK 1911 threaded barrel that I've seen somewhere, or go with SD 1911/2011 chamber with SD 1911 straight outer barrel with silencer adapter. Note that you need to have a proper chamber thats labeled for suitable with Hi-capa and 1911, or else the thread is not compatible, and you end up with a barrel that sticks out:
I find personally that DEN have the best reference as to which chambers are suitable for what, and most selection of chambers available for Hi-Capa/1911 from SD. FYI I ran Barsto .45 ACP for the one that didn't fit, and changed to a Colt .45 Auto which fits properly.
Pros: Looks the best, free-up the inner barrel, installation is simple drop with the compatible parts.
Cons: Cost, weight, only compatible with some SD slides (unverified), not compatible with 4.3 AFAIK, you HAVE to run bushing.
VII. Finding and Buying Upgrades
There are so many parts available for the Hi-Capa that it can sometimes be a bit of a challenge to find what people recommend to you. The most important thing to know is that GBB parts are hard to find in the US. If you are serious about getting your hands on some quality bits and pieces you will need to be ordering parts from Asia (Hong Kong mostly). I know that some people are nervous about order from overseas but I have to say, in my experience, that HK retailers are professional and fast. Also, unlike total guns, it is easy to get parts through customs. Rather than type out a list of stores I will simply post hkssr20det's where to buy GBB's and GBB Parts Guide.
I do want give some basic pointers about places to check out though. The 'Big Three" Hong Kong GBB parts carriers are Den Trinity, UNcompany, and WGC Shop. If you want a part check those places first. Other shops of note include X-Fire (PDI's Japanese outlet) and Fire Custom Shop (insane looking custom parts, also very expensive).
Where to buy GBB's and GBB Parts Guide -
http://airsoft-barracks.com/forums/index.p...msg5455#msg5455
VIII. Useful Hi-Capa Links
Hi-Capa Modifications For Speed and Control
How To Make Custom Hi-Capa Recoil Rods
Buying GBB Parts Guide
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